Brisket Defined

Brisket is cut from the breast section of a side of beef. Each beef carcass renders two whole briskets.

According to the USDA Institutional Meat Purchasing Standard (IMPS), a beef brisket as it's cut from a side of beef "includes the anterior end of the sternum bones, the deep pectoral, and the supraspinatus muscle. Evidence of the cartilaginous juncture of the 1st rib and the sternum and the cross section of 4 rib bones shall be present." You'll never find this bone-in brisket at the supermarket.

The whole brisket you'll buy for barbecue is what the IMPS calls "beef brisket, deckle-off, boneless." The IMPS defines it as follows: "All bones and cartilage shall be removed. The deckle (hard fat and intercostal meat on the inside surface) shall be removed at the natural seam exposing the lean surface of the deep pectoral muscle. The inside lean surface shall be trimmed practically free of fat." The word "intercostal" refers to meat between the rib bones.

The deep pectoral muscle (the "inside lean surface") is commonly referred to as the brisket flat, while the supraspinatus muscle is commonly known as the brisket point.

Contrary to popular belief, the deckle is not the same thing as the brisket point. Rather, it's the fat and muscle that attach the brisket flat to the rib cage.

The flat is just that: Sort of a flat, rectangular piece of meat that makes up the majority of the whole brisket. This is the portion that is cut across the grain into slices and served on a plate or in a sandwich. You've probably seen the flat in the meat case at the supermarket, separated from the point and with most fat removed, ready for braising in the oven.

The point is a lump of meat that partially overlaps one end of the flat. It is quite fatty on its surface as well as within the meat. It also contains a lot of connective tissue between the meat fibers. It can be sliced, but its loose texture after cooking makes it a better choice for chopped brisket sandwiches.

The flat and point are separated by a very thick vein of fat running between them. This fat extends over the entire surface of the flat, becoming thinner at the end opposite the point. This layer of fat is sometimes referred to as the "fat cap". Thick fat may also wrap around one edge of the brisket flat, especially near the point.

From an anatomical perspective, the brisket flat is the "deepest" portion of meat and is attached to the rib cage, while the brisket point sits on top of the flat and is nearest the surface.

Still confused about what's the flat and what's the point? Here's an easy way to orient yourself to a whole brisket: One side of the brisket has a large area with essentially no fat on it. With the fat-free side facing down, the flat is on the bottom and the point is facing up at the high end of the brisket.

The grain of the meat in the flat and point run almost perpendicular to each another. As a result, the two sections must be separated after cooking and sliced separately.

Choosing A Brisket For Barbecue

There are several considerations when selecting a brisket for barbecuing:

	Buy USDA Choice Grade Choose a USDA Choice grade brisket, if available. Look for the USDA Choice shield on the package, as shown in this picture. A Choice grade brisket should have slightly more marbling (intramuscular fat) than a USDA Select grade brisket. Some people that participate in barbecue competitions seek out USDA Prime grade briskets, the highest quality grade available. Prime briskets are difficult to find, but those who use them report excellent results.
	Branded Beef Some beef producers "brand" their beef products--not with a red-hot branding iron, but with fancy marketing names. Examples of successful branded beef include Certified Angus Beef (CAB), Meyer Natural Angus Beef, and IBP Chairman's Reserve Certified Premium Beef. Pretty much any meat that has a fancy name attached to it is a branded beef product.   Producers say that branded products meet higher standards than non-branded beef, are of higher quality, and taste better. Some brands claim to choose younger cattle with more marbling that straddle the line between USDA Choice and USDA Prime grades. Meyer Natural says that its beef is produced without hormones or antibiotics.   I've cooked CAB brisket, and it's a good product. If you have a choice between branded and non-branded beef at the same price, go with the branded product. Frankly, I've cooked both side-by-side and couldn't tell a difference. Let your wallet, your taste buds, and availability be your guide.
	Whole, Untrimmed Brisket In Cryovac Buy a whole, untrimmed brisket still in the Cryovac packaging. This is referred to as "packer cut" or "packer trimmed" brisket--my German butcher Mark Dittmer calls it "brisket for Texas barbecue." Buying an untrimmed brisket allows you to trim it just the way you like, and all that fat will keep the meat moist during cooking. This picture shows what a whole brisket in Cryovac looks like.   Avoid small, super-trimmed brisket flats with the point removed. They may be advertised as "first cut", "nose off", or "cap removed". These are fine for braising in the oven, but are hard to barbecue without drying them out. If this is all that's available to you, a layer of bacon placed on top may help to keep the meat moist during cooking. Large brisket flats with the fat cap intact can be barbecued successfully, and some folks prefer this to whole brisket, as there is less waste. If you'd like to get more familiar with a whole brisket, take control of this Virtual Brisket.
	Weight Whole, untrimmed briskets weigh 8-16 pounds. Something in the 10-12 pound range is your best bet and will fit on either WSM cooking grate. Larger specimens can be "shoehorned" between the handles on the top cooking grate, or a portion of the flat section can be folded under. After several hours of cooking, the brisket will shrink and fit more comfortably on the grate. Large brisket flats with the fat cap intact weigh about 6 pounds.
	White, Hard Fat The conventional wisdom in barbecue circles is to choose a brisket covered in white, hard fat. This indicates that the animal was fattened on grain at the feedlot during the final weeks before slaughter. Fat that is not ultra-white, trending toward yellow, is an indication of grass feeding and is thought to be less desirable for barbecued brisket.   When I visit my butcher, I don't have too many briskets to choose from, so I can't always be picky. I try to choose a brisket with white, hard fat if I can, making sure it has a fat cap 1/4" to 1/3" thick over the entire flat portion. Admittedly, this can be difficult to judge through the Cryovac packaging.
	Flat With Even Thickness Try to choose a brisket that has a flat section of even thickness. Most flats tend to narrow a bit toward one edge, and this is normal--but avoid those that taper off to a very thin edge. Even thickness helps promote even cooking and provides uniform slices. Again, this can be difficult to judge through the Cryovac packaging, and may be a moot point if you don't have many briskets from which to choose.
	Flexibility & Left-Handed Briskets Some people believe that the flexibility of a brisket is an indication of its tenderness. Frankly, I don't know how to evaluate this when a brisket is still in Cryovac. I don't know about you, but my butcher won't let me unwrap meat and handle it before purchase. So I don't know what to make of this claim.   A more colorful claim is that the brisket from the left side of the animal is more tender than that from the right side. I don't know if this is true, but it does make for a great story, especially after a few beers. You can read all about this claim and how to identify left- and right-handed briskets by clicking the InfoBullet below.

There are some folks who do nothing more than remove the brisket from the Cryovac, pat it dry with paper towels, apply a favorite rub, and throw the brisket into the cooker. If this works for you, go for it.

I had never seen a whole brisket until I attended the Paul Kirk Pitmaster Class in 1997, and the way he taught us to prep a brisket in that class is the way I've been doing it ever since.

Chef Paul's main point is this: It makes no sense to leave all of the fat on the brisket. Smoke and rub won't penetrate it. It will take more time and fuel to cook the brisket with all the fat intact. And in the end, you're not going to eat the fat--you're going to cut it away and discard it.

So, Chef Paul's approach is to cut away some of the thickest areas of fat on the brisket and to trim the fat cap over the flat to 1/8" to 1/4". This leaves enough fat to keep the brisket moist during cooking.

Before going any further, I must point out that every brisket is unique--no two are identical! I continue to be amazed at the variation from one brisket to the next in terms of size, shape, amount of fat, and the relationship between the flat and point sections. So don't be surprised if your brisket is longer, shorter, skinnier, fatter, taller, or different in some way from those shown in the pictures below. I should also point out that a couple of different briskets are pictured below, which explains some of the differences you'll see between photos.

One last note: It's an exercise in futility to try trimming a brisket with a knife that's not up to the task. You need a very large, sharp knife. Don't try this with a paring knife, a utility knife, or any knife that is dull. A butcher's knife, like the one shown in the picture below, does a great job, but a large, very sharp chef's knife will do.

	Remove Brisket From The Cryovac Remove the brisket from the Cryovac packaging. Pat dry with paper towels. Place on a large cutting board with the point facing up. Remember, the brisket has one side with a large, relatively fat-free area--if you place that side facing down, then the point will be facing up.
	Trim Thick Areas Of Fat Around The Point Most briskets have extremely thick areas of fat on top of and around the point section (Picture 1), as well as a thick edge of fat running down one side of the flat section (Picture 2). Trim away most of this fat as best you can. Remember, the goal is to remove excess fat while still leaving a 1/4" layer to protect the meat below. Admittedly, it takes some time and experience to judge this, and there's really no harm if you leave too much fat. You also don't have to freak out if you cut a little too deep and strike red meat! Just back off on the knife and don't cut so deep. Take your time and remove what make sense to you, without cutting so close that you're exposing the meat. You will notice a very thick vein of fat running between the point and the flat sections. Some folks just trim fat from the surface of this vein, without actually cutting into the vein itself. I like to cut a V-shaped chunk of fat from this vein. You can be pretty aggressive in removing fat from this area, but if you keep cutting and cutting, you'll end up almost separating the two sections! In fact, in Picture 3, I think I was a bit too aggressive and should have left more fat.
	Trim Fat From The Flat Now turn your attention to the large expanse of fat covering the brisket flat. Trim the surface fat, leaving a 1/8" to 1/4" layer. By running your fingers over the surface, you'll get a feel for where the thickest areas are located. Just go slow and trim carefully, backing off on the knife if you hit red meat. Again, this takes some practice, so don't beat yourself up if you shave a spot a little too close. There's no harm done if you leave a little too much fat. These pictures show the same brisket flat before and after trimming. Notice that toward the end of the flat, I only had to trim fat from the right side; the left side was already in the 1/8-1/4" range. As you move down the flat away from the point, the fat becomes less hard and more spongy, making it more difficult to cut. This is where a sharp butcher's knife really helps.
	Turn & Trim The Other Side Turn the brisket over. You should be looking at a large expanse of flat that needs little trimming, if any at all. There may still be some significant fat around the bottom side of the point and in the vein between the two sections. In fact, the vein of fat may be more pronounced on this side than on the other side. Trim away what makes sense to you. In this picture, you'll notice that I made another V-shaped cut into the vein, leaving behind a more appropriate amount of fat this time.
	Marking The Brisket Flat Sometimes it can be difficult to determine which way the grain is running in the flat after cooking. In the Pitmaster Class, Paul Kirk suggests that you trim a small corner of meat from the end of the flat section, perpendicular to the grain of the meat. Use that edge as a guide for slicing across the grain after cooking. As I suggest later in this topic, if you remove the point from the flat section before slicing the flat, the grain becomes well exposed and you won't have much difficulty determining how the grain runs.
	The End Result Here's how the brisket may look after trimming. Picture 1 shows the fat side facing up, with a 1/8" to 1/4" layer of fat covering the whole surface. On this brisket, a thick edge of fat ran down the right side of the brisket, and I trimmed most of it away. Picture 2 shows the same brisket flipped over, with the lean surface of the flat facing up. I trimmed much of the fat from the vein between the point and flat. This brisket has not been marked. If I were to mark it, I would cut off the tip at the bottom of Picture 2, perpendicular to the grain.

Seasoning The Brisket

There are some hardcore fanatics in the Lone Star State that just apply salt and pepper to a brisket and smoke it. They let the natural flavor of the meat and smoke do all the talking. Most people, however, prefer to season a brisket with something a bit more complex.

After trimming a brisket, you can use either a dry rub or a marinade to season the meat. You can apply the rub and put the meat into the cooker immediately, but I prefer to apply rub, then wrap in Saran Wrap and refrigerate overnight. I don't have any illusions about the rub penetrating the meat, because it doesn't, at least not deeply. However, it does form a moist layer of seasoning that adheres well during cooking. I also usually apply a bit more rub before putting the meat in the cooker. As in the Pork Butt - Slathered With Mustard & Rub topic, you can apply a thin coat of mustard to a brisket before sprinkling on the rub, if you like.

A marinade is a liquid concoction in which a brisket is soaked, usually overnight. Typically, it's a mix of a dry rub with some flavorful liquid such as beer or soda pop. Again, don't be deceived into thinking that a marinade somehow penetrates the meat to its core, because it doesn't. It only affects perhaps the outer 1/8" of meat. Nor does a marinade tenderize meat deep inside. Marinades that contain an acid, like vinegar, may have an affect on the surface of meat, but if you're not careful, it will just make the surface sort of mushy. So think of a marinade only as a method for adding flavor to the outside of meat.

You'll find lots of dry rub and marinade recipes in the Recipes Forum on The Virtual Weber Bulletin Board. In Brisket - Wet Rub, I used a paste on a brisket, which is sort of a wet rub...or a really thick marinade.

Temperature Of Brisket Before Cooking

There are two schools of thought on this point. Some recipes, including some on this Web site, suggest that you allow a brisket to sit at room temperature for up to two hours before cooking. This helps to minimize the difference in temperature between the meat and the cooker.

Why is this important? Some barbecue experts say that cold meat can be fouled by creosote that results from a poorly managed fire, especially in wood-burning cookers. The result is a brisket with a bitter taste. This isn't much of a concern in the WSM as long as the top vent is fully open at all times. And of course, the WSM is charcoal-fired, not wood-fired. Others say that a brisket at room temperature takes less time and fuel to cook than a cold one, but I'm not sure this is much of an issue, either.

In the other school of thought, we have those who believe it's best to take meat straight from the refrigerator and put it into the cooker. Their theory is that the smoke ring, that pinkish/purple color that forms beneath the surface of the brisket, is formed only while the meat is below 140°F. By starting with a colder piece of meat, it spends more time below 140°F in the cooker, resulting in a stronger smoke ring.

I've cooked briskets both ways, and I'm not sure I can tell a difference either way. Lately, my habit has been to take the brisket from the refrigerator and place it directly in the cooker. I've not gotten out a measuring tape to see what affect, if any, this has on the formation of the smoke ring, nor have I noticed any bitter flavor to the meat.

Frankly, I think meat temperature is more of an issue with grilled meats that cook quickly over high heat than it is for large cuts like brisket that barbecue for 12-18 hours or more.

Converting Collagen To Gelatin Is Key To Tender Brisket

In his book On Food And Cooking, author Harold McGee says that meat is composed of three tissue types: muscle fiber, connective tissue, and fat. Connective tissue consists of the proteins collagen, elastin, and reticulin. Collectively, these proteins bind the muscle fibers together and help connect muscles to bone--McGee calls it "the physical harness of the muscles."

Brisket has an abundance of connective tissue, as do most muscles that work very hard. It's this connective tissue that makes brisket such a tough cut of meat. The good news is that muscles that work hard tend to be more flavorful than those that don't work hard.

According to McGee, connective tissues made of elastin and reticulin don't break down during cooking, but collagen turns into soft gelatin. It is this conversion from collagen to gelatin that renders the tough old brisket into the tender barbecue we enjoy so much.

When Is Brisket Done?

In the book How To Cook Meat, authors Chris Schlesinger and John Willoughby say that tough cuts of meat must be "cooked through doneness to tenderness." In other words, you don't stop cooking a brisket when it reaches the internal temperature we associate with tender cuts of beef like a Porterhouse steak or even a tri-tip roast. A brisket is not edible if cooked to 125°F or even 175°F.

In order to be tender, a brisket must be cooked to an internal temperature of 180-205°. The reason for this, according to McGee, is that the conversion of collagen to gelatin doesn't even begin until meat reaches an internal temperature of 140°F, and is most efficient as internal temps approach 212°F. "Low and slow" barbecuing at 225-250°F is ideal to facilitate this conversion, providing gentle heat over many hours, allowing the collagen to make its transition into gelatin. While some moisture will be driven out of the brisket as it reaches these high internal temps, the gelatin makes up for it and keeps the meat moist. Of course, the fat layer on the brisket also helps maintain moisture in the meat during cooking, as well.

Barbecue experts with years of cooking experience say a brisket is done when it's "fork tender", meaning that a fork or a probe thermometer goes in and out of the meat with little resistance. The problem is that both a properly cooked brisket and an overcooked one with both be "fork tender". For most folks like you and me, it's best to rely on internal meat temperature to determine when a brisket is properly cooked.

What most everyone does agree on is that a properly cooked slice of brisket should pull apart easily, while still maintaining good texture. An overcooked slice will fall apart when picked up.

188°F and 190°F seem to be the most popular target temps. I cook brisket to a variety of internal temps, depending on the method I use to cook them. When I barbecue a brisket entirely in the WSM, like in Brisket - Midnight Cook, I cook to an internal temp of 185-190°F. In this temperature range, the flat will be fork-tender and the slices cut from the flat will hold together.

When I use the method described in Brisket - Smoked & Oven Finished, I may take the brisket as high as 205°F internal. At this higher temp, the flat will be extremely tender and may have to be sliced a little thicker to hold together. Some would say that a brisket cooked to this temp is on the verge of being overcooked. In the end, it's up to you to determine what you like.

How long will it take to cook brisket to 180-205°F? As a rough estimate, figure 1-1/2 hours per pound based on the post-trimmed weight. Remember, this is only an estimate--it may take more or less time, depending on the thickness of the brisket, the amount of connective tissue that needs to be converted to gelatin, the temperature of the cooker, weather conditions, and the number of times you open the cooker for turning and basting.

Where To Measure Internal Temperature

I get confusing temperature readings in the point end of a brisket, probably because of all the fat and connective tissue. Your best bet is to measure the internal temp in the flat section. Insert an instant-read or probe thermometer into the middle of the flat from the side of the brisket--not from the top. This picture shows how to place a Polder probe into a brisket.

Cook Fat-Side Up Or Fat-Side Down?

Some people cook briskets fat-side up, while others cook fat-side down. Some people turn briskets during cooking, others don't. When I first learned how to cook a brisket in 1997, I was taught to start the brisket fat-side up and to turn and baste it as described below in "Turning & Basting". However, during 2004 more and more barbecue competitors began singing the praises of cooking brisket fat-side down and not turning it at all (but still basting it).

Proponents of fat-side up say it allows the rendered fat to "baste" the brisket flat during cooking. In his School of Pitmasters Class, Paul Kirk suggests that you start a brisket fat-side up and then turn the meat "at the halftimes" to promote even cooking, and that's what I've done for many brisket cooks. (The halftime process is described below in "Turning & Basting".)

Proponents of fat-side down say that the fat layer shields the brisket flat from the direct heat coming up from the bottom of the cooker, preventing it from drying out. They will cook fat-side down the entire time without turning the meat even once.

Turning & Basting

Using 1-1/2 hours per pound as a guideline, calculate how long it will take to cook the brisket. For example, a 12 pound brisket will take approximately 18 hours to cook. Divide this time in half. So, the first time to turn and baste the brisket is at this halfway point: 9 hours. If you baste sooner than the halfway point, the rub won't have a chance to set up on the surface of the meat and you'll end up washing away much of it.

Basting helps keep the meat moist and adds a little flavor to the surface of the meat. Baste one side of the brisket, then turn it over and end-for-end and baste the other side. You can baste with any flavorful liquid you like. It might be apple juice applied with a spray bottle, or a complex concoction applied with a cotton mop. Again, you'll find lots of ideas in the Recipe Forums on The Virtual Weber Bulletin Board.

Now, divide the remaining time in half. In our example, the next time to turn and baste the meat will be in 4-1/2 hours. Repeat this process until about the last hour of cooking, then stop turning and basting.

Remember, every time the cooker is opened, it loses temperature, so be quick and efficient when turning and basting.

Temperature Plateau

It's common for a brisket to reach a temperature plateau during cooking--a point at which the internal temperature stops rising and stalls, sometimes for several hours. It's thought that this has something to do with the amount of moisture in the meat and the conversion of collagen to gelatin that we discussed earlier.

Do not despair, because with some patience and a 225-250°F cooker temperature, the brisket will eventually move beyond the plateau and the meat temperature shall rise again.

If you're cooking a very large brisket and running short on time (or patience), you can kick the cooker up to 275°F without doing any harm. Or, if the brisket has reached 160-175°F, you can wrap it in foil and finish it in a 300°F oven, like in Brisket - Smoked & Oven Finished.

Foiling & Resting After Cooking

As with any large roast, it's important to let a brisket rest for at least 30 minutes before slicing so the juices inside the meat have a chance to redistribute. I'll never forget the first time I cut into a brisket as it came right out of the cooker--it gushed liquid all over the cutting board and ended up being quite dry! You can read more about the science behind this in Letting Meat Rest After Cooking.

At a minimum, place the brisket on a rimmed baking pan, cover loosely with foil, and let rest 30 minutes before slicing.

For even better results, wrap the brisket with aluminum foil, place it fat-side up in an empty ice chest, and let rest for 1-2 hours. The meat will continue to cook for a little while because of carry-over heat, making the meat even more tender. More importantly, the extended rest results in moister meat, and the collected juices inside the foil will soften any tough crust on the brisket flat.

Some folks will even pour a little beef broth into the foil package with the brisket before sealing it tightly for the extended rest, again to help promote moister meat.

Whatever you do, save the juices that have accumulated in the foil! Separate the fat and use the remainder to moisten leftover brisket the next day, or use it as an ingredient in homemade barbecue sauce.

Slicing & Chopping Brisket

Here's how to slice the brisket flat and chop the point for sandwiches:

	Separate The Point From The Flat This dark, almost burnt looking piece of meat is, in fact, a properly cooked brisket. Don't be surprised if your brisket turns out looking like the one shown in Picture 1. Start by separating the point from the flat. After the brisket has cooked, the demarcation between these two sections becomes fairly clear. Using a sharp knife, cut through the thick vein of fat to separate the two pieces. Some people find that scraping the excess fat from the flat section first helps to reveal the vein of fat between the two sections more clearly. Picture 2 shows how the two pieces look after being separated. The flat is on the left and the point on the right. This particular brisket has an enormous point, almost as big as the flat, which is quite unusual. The point on your brisket will most likely be smaller.
	Slice The Flat Scrape the remaining fat from the flat section where it was connected to the point. Determine the direction of the grain of the meat, then cut across the grain into 1/4" slices. If the meat seems a bit tough, slice it thinner; if fall-apart tender, slice it up to 1/2" thick. This picture shows how the slices will look. If the brisket flat is much wider than your knife, cut the brisket down the center with the grain, then cut shorter slices across the grain from each half.
	Slice Or Chop The Point When it comes to the point section, you have several options. You can throw it back into the smoker for 4-6 hours to make burnt ends (see below). It can also be trimmed of excess fat and sliced across the grain, but I don't care for the texture of these slices very much. My preference is to trim the excess fat and shred the meat for chopped sandwiches. To shred the point, hold a serrated knife across the grain and push the knife away from you at an angle down through the meat. You're not trying to cut a clean slice--you want to tear shreds from the soft meat. Weed out any bits of excess fat and connective tissue that did not break down during cooking. Add to the shredded meat any cutting board leftovers from slicing the flat section, then chop through the meat a few times with a chef's knife to cut up any large pieces. This picture shows sliced meat from the flat on the left and chopped meat from the point on the right.

Burnt Ends

Traditionally, burnt ends sold in restaurants were the dry edges and leftover bits and pieces of the brisket flat after slicing, mixed with barbecue sauce. These morsels were highly prized for their intense, smoky flavor.

Today, famous barbecue joints like Arthur Bryant's in Kansas City can't meet the demand for burnt ends using leftover bits, so they make a facsimile by cubing fully cooked brisket flats, placing the cubes in a pan and smoking them for a couple of hours, then adding sauce and smoking for a couple more hours.

Another approach for making burnt ends is to separate the point section from the flat section after the flat is done, then return the point to the cooker for smoke for an additional 4-6 hours. Chop the point, mix with barbecue sauce, and enjoy!

Brisket Yield

When you take into account the trimming of the brisket before and after cooking, plus the shrinkage that occurs during cooking, don't be surprised if you end up with a 50% yield of edible meat from a whole, untrimmed brisket. That means 6 pounds of edible meat from a 12 pound brisket. Depending on the brisket and the internal temp you cook it to, it may be as low as 40% or as high as 60%.

If you're cooking brisket for a party, figure 4-5 ounces of meat per sandwich or 6 ounces of sliced meat on a plate (8 ounces for hearty eaters). Using a 40% yield, just to be safe, a 12 pound brisket yields 19 4-ounce sandwiches or almost 13 6-ounce plate servings.

Leftovers

There's a good chance you'll end up with lots of leftover brisket. See Holding, Storing & Reheating Barbecued Meats for tips on how to freeze and reheat the leftovers.

Virtual Brisket

If you've never had a chance to handle a whole, packer-cut brisket, check-out the Virtual Brisket. It's the next best thing to being there!

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